Kwik Sew Patterns and Book
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Sewing Pattern History: Kwik Sew

I have a soft spot for out of print, vintage, and even antique sewing patterns. Kwik Sew is especially dear to me, since it was founded in 1967 by Kerstin Martensson under the name Sew Knit & Stretch in Minneapolis. She changed the name to Kwik Sew in 1974.

Kerstin was a fascinating woman. Born in Sweden in 1938, Kerstin worked in the ready-to-wear industry before becoming a pattern maker for the Viking Sewing Machine Company. In a great example of technology leading to new creativity for home sewers, Viking wanted to expand the market for its new “reverse cycle machines,” sewing machines that could create stretch stitches. Kerstin developed sewing patterns and also travelled to the US to demonstrate new techniques. Her work led to her branching out and forming her own company.

If you see any of Kerstin’s books for sale, grab them! I particularly love the Kwik Sew Method for Sewing Lingerie (1978), which comes with patterns for some of the garments explained in the book and some pattern-free sewing projects in the back of the book. Take care when purchasing online – the patterns are often missing or lost.

Kwik Sew patterns were beloved for many reasons: They typically included a wide range of sizes, they printed patterns on heavy paper, and their instructions were clear enough for just about any skill level. Designs tended to be solid basics and accessories that could become tried and true patterns. In my own sewing history, one of my favorite bra patterns is Kwik Sew 3594.

Her son, Eric McMaster, took over as President and CEO of Kwik Sew in 2001. Kerstin passed away the next year. In 2006, she was inducted posthumously into the Sewing Hall of Fame.

The McCall’s Pattern Company purchased Kwik Sew in 2011 and announced a merger in 2012. At the time, McCall’s website claimed that there were more than 800 Kwik Sew patterns, including fashion and craft, and that Kwik Sew “offers the largest selection of patterns for children, men, lingerie, swimwear, active wear, and fleece.”

I haven’t gone back and checked to try to figure out when it happened, but, at some point, the paper used for Kwik Sew patterns moved to the tissue-weight paper of just about every other commercial pattern. If that’s important to you, stick to patterns that were issued before 2012.

SomethingDelightful.com stopped selling Kwik Sew patterns online in 2021. It appears that at least some of the Kwik Sew patterns were reissued with Simplicity pattern numbers, but I’m not sure how many were transitioned over.

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Zippers in Knits – Tricks to Try

We love them. We (sometimes) fear sewing with them. In some cases, practice is the best instructor. That helps, of course, but a few well-applied tools can make inserting zippers into a knit garment much easier.

This is what might happen if you just grab a zipper and sew a knit fabric to it:

The clip is holding the fabric to the zipper halfway down the test seam. What you can see just in front of the clip is what I call “the bubble of doom.” Here, it’s showing me that the fabric is stretching as I sew. The zipper tape isn’t stretchy, so, as I sew (and stretch) along, the fabric is growing longer than the non-stretchy zipper tape.

There are a few things I could do to reduce the fabric’s stretching. I could lower the presser foot pressure. I could pin the edge with a pin every inch.

I could also call in reinforcements. In this case, I like to add two helpers to my team, so to speak.

Enter one of my favorite sewing tools: wash away wonder tape.

In my opinion, using wash away wonder tape is like having access to the perfect type of pin or instant basting. It’s perfect because it serves as pins and basting you never have to take out, because it just goes away in the first wash!

Simply stick the tape along the edge of your zipper tape, remove the paper backing, and stick your fabric to your zipper edge. Adjust and readjust until you’re happy with it. Then, sew!

Much better!

Side note: mark the line where two seams should match up with chalk. It will save you lots of guesswork!

This looks pretty good. The tape helped a lot! To be honest, though, the topstitching was kind of hard to manage and it’s also not laying as flat as I would like.

Enter my second helpful tool. In this test, I’m trying 1-inch-wide fusible tricot strips. I’m fusing with an iron set to “wool” and using a tissue press cloth.

I also switched back to my walking foot for topstitching. I think it made it easier to control. This machine can be set with the needle in the left position, so it makes topstitching with a walking foot easier.

Final results. Wonder tape used on the left. On the right, fusible tricot strips and wonder tape were used together.

I think the one one the left is fine, but the one on the right does look a little neater. Also, the fused edge held the seam allowances more flat as I sewed, which does make that bump easier to stitch over.

One final note: the fused edge did “draw up” a little. It’s still a little stretchy, so just make sure your fused edge isn’t shorter than it should be by comparing it to your zipper tape before you sew. If it has drawn up, you can gently stretch it to the correct length when you baste to the zipper tape using wash away wonder tape.

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Choosing Fabric for Greenstyle’s Sundance Jacket

My jacket, in progress. I’ll use a solid color in class to make it easier to see details.

This is one of the topics we will discuss in class, but if you want to choose your material and cut strips for practice during class, I want to help you get ready!

The notes say that the pattern “…is suitable for medium to heavy weight stable knits like double knits, Ponte de Roma, scuba knit, medium-heavy weight Supplex.”

“Stable knit” is one of those terms that can scare you right off from choosing knits. Basically, it’s a knit fabric that has a little (not a lot) of stretch and a lot (not a little) recovery.

You want a fabric that has at least 25% stretch in the horizontal direction. To test this, fold a piece of your fabric along a top or bottom edge, line it up against a four-inch length of ruler or a gridded surface, and stretch it. It should easily stretch to 5 inches wide. If your fabric stretches a lot more than that, you may want to cut the next size down in the pattern.

In the vertical direction (along a selvedge edge), the fabric should stretch 25% or less.

Test recovery by poking your thumb or finger very firmly into the fabric near a selvedge edge. If, after a few minutes, you can still see where you poked the fabric, your fabric may not have enough recovery for this project.

I’m sewing my samples in Liverpool, which is a very easy-to-sew double knit fabric. (This is the exact fabric. Please note that we are not affiliated with Girl Charlee.) Another good option is Heavy Brushed Athletic Performance fabric from Greenstyle. (We are connected to Greenstyle, but this is not an affiliate link.)

I’ve seen lovely versions of this jacket in Supplex and in a reversible knit.

I also love the idea of making this jacket as my first scuba knit project. This one is so great!

Don’t forget that, whatever fabric you choose, you’ll probably want a lighter-weight fabric for your pockets. I’m using nylon tricot for mine. An athletic mesh would also be nice and very RTW.

For more background on sewing knit fabrics, check out this Threads Magazine article by Ann Person, a piece on Ponte Knits by Nancy Nix-Rice (subscription and login required), and Sourcing Scuba Knit by Stephani L. Miller.

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Sundance Jacket Back and How to Add a Matching Notch to Any Sewing Pattern

I read over the directions for Greenstyle’s Sundance jacket and I felt like I knew where the sewing challenges would lie. I then proceeded to prove to myself that some issues only show up when you’re actually sewing!

Now, maybe some people won’t have trouble with this, but the first time I stitched the back yoke to the rest of the back, it ended up crooked. I picked out my stitching (and topstitching!) and redid it. Here are a few tips to avoid getting tripped up, as I did.

  • Instead of stitching from left to right on the yoke, stitch from the center back seam of the yoke to the outer edge of the back, then go back and stitch the other side from the center back seam to the other outer edge. This makes lining up the centers of the yoke and the back piece much simpler.
  • After stitching (before topstitching), lay out your back piece on a flat surface and check that it all looks good. If I had done this, I would have, at least, only had to take out the stitching and not both the stitching and topstitching to redo it.
  • Add a notch on the back yoke pieces where they should intersect with seam lines.

Adding a notch to make sure something matches is pretty easy. In this case, there’s a seam line I want to match up, so I started by marking out the seam allowances on the back center pattern piece and the yoke piece.

I then lined up the two seam allowances from the center-back seam out, pivoting to bring them into line with each other as they curved, until I found the place the yoke should intersect with the seam between the center back and side back pattern pieces. I then marked that spot.

The little cross you see there isn’t because I did this on Easter. It’s so that, when I cut the pattern again, I know to only cut my notch about halfway into the seam allowance. Sometimes when I see a longer line like the first one I drew, I overcut my notch and that creates a weak spot in the seam.

There you have it! Matching notches are a pretty easy way to see if you’re off track when sewing before you even finish stitching the entire seam.

Curious about sewing your own fantastic athleisurewear jacket? Check out our class coming up on May 22, 2021. If we have time in class, I’ll go over this, again!